Free Tie Pattern
Items Needed when using this free tie pattern:
- Tie Pattern
- Fabric (woven...not knit)
- Scissors (regular and pinking or scalloping)
- Straight Pins
- Seam Sealant
All seams are 1/4 inch. This pattern is designed for SD size ball jointed dolls.
Read through the pattern instructions below completely to aquaint yourself with the steps before starting.
Appropriate fabric choices for this free tie pattern: First and foremost, lightweight is the key! Cottons, polycottons, acetate, silk, crepe, etc. If this is your first time making this, I would suggest a cotton for ease of handling until you become familiar with the pattern.
Open and print out our free tie pattern (3 pages total)
Open Tie Pattern Here (Adobe Reader )
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This pincushion icon used in this free tie pattern indicates a sewing tip or clarification
Tape pattern together as follows:
A to A............B to B
Then cut your free tie pattern to the length needed (as noted on the pattern itself).
Please note that when you put the pattern pieces together, the half circles will become full circles.
**I would recommend that the first few ties that you make are done with a solid color fabric until you are familiar with how these are done. Then it will be easier to try fabric that has a printed or woven pattern, which will require more careful placement of the pattern on the fabric.
Let's begin the free tie pattern, shall we?
Step One: Lay your assembled pattern piece on the lengthwise grain of your fabric. Pin and cut out.
There are three grains on woven fabric.....lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage edge (the selvage is the woven edge of your fabric that does not fray. There are two of these edges on your fabric). Crosswise grain runs from selvage to selvage. True bias grain runs diagonally (45 degree angle) to the lengthwise grain. So why choose lenthwise grain versus crosswise? Lengthwise has the least amount of give and will handle more easily and is thus the best grainline to work with when first learning to sew. That aside however, patterned fabrics often dictate how you lay out your pattern pieces so as to take best advantage of the designs on the fabric. Now back to the free tie pattern.
Step Two: Fold tie in half and pin bottom, right sides together. The bottom of the tie will be the point on your finished tie.
Stitch across the end, making sure you are using a 1/4 inch seam and back stitching at the beginning and the end.
Step Three: Clip the corner to the stitching. Take care not to cut into the stitches! This corner is on the folded edge of the tie.
Why clip? Whenever a seam creates a corner of any kind, there will be bulk in that corner. If you do not clip the corner out, you will have bumpy corners. Bulk is a doll seamstress's worst enemy! By cutting the corner off as close to the stitching as you can, you are removing bulk which makes for a more professional finish.
Put a drop of seam sealant on this cut corner to stabilize it (makes the point more durable when you turn it right side out).
When seam sealant dries, trim remaining seam with pinking or scalloping shears (which limits fraying.) More on seam sealant at the end of this free tie pattern.
Step Four: Turn point of tie right side out. To get a nice point in the tip of your tie, use a point turner as seen in the picture. If you do not have one available, a sharpened pencil with the lead broke off, works miracles here. Never use anything sharp for turning a point (like scissors or seam rippers!) because they will poke right on through and ruin the point!
Step Five: Open tie and press tip. (Make sure your iron is set to the appropriate heat setting for the type of fabric you are using).
Step Six: Fold tie in half lengthwise and pin (right sides together).
The tip of your tie will look like this.
Step Seven: Using a 1/4" seam (do I stress this enough in this free tie pattern.....LOL!) sew from the narrow end of the tie to the tip of the tie, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and the end.
Pink or scallop this edge, but only skim the edge with them.....do not cut close to the stitching here. Your pinked or scalloped edge should look like this.
Step Eight: Going back up to the top of the narrow end of the tie, open the seam allowance and pin across, centering the seam of the tie. Sew the narrow end shut. (1/4" seam line)
When done, cut the corners off, which will create a point. Cut the point off, too. Place a drop of seam sealant on each corner and let dry.
Step Nine: Once the sealant is dry, you are going to turn your tie right side out. There is more than one way to do this and there are several tools on the market that are very helpful. I use the 'Turn It All' for turning tubes right side out.
If you do not have a tube turner, do not fear. You can use a metal bodkin or a sharpened pencil (with the lead broke off) to turn this right side out. Using the 'Turn It All', I drop the tube inside of the tie and work it to the narrow end. More information at the end of this free tie pattern.
Using the dowel that comes with the set, I push the dowel into the tube that is inside the tie, working it completely to the end.
If you are using a pencil, grasp the narrow end of the tie and squeeze it so as to make it open up a bit.
Ease the tip of the pencil into the tip of the tie and push gently, forcing the tie to turn inside out.
It takes a little more work to do it this way as opposed to a tool that is made for the process, but it does work.
Step Ten: Press your tie flat, making sure that the seam line runs down the center of the tie. The picture shows what it should look like on the backside of the pressed tie. Voila! A lovely tie for your resin folks!
Not sure how to tie your tie? Click here for instructions
**Here is some information on specialized sewing supplies used in this free tie pattern**
Tube turners that are on the market are:
'Turn It All' which is what I use. It is limited as to the sizes of tubes it can turn and only turns 3 sizes of tubes...3/16", 3/8" and 1/2". Relatively inexpensive.
Clover 'Easy Loop Turner' which can turn loops and small tubes up to 3/8". I have this also. It works, but can be frustrating as it is not effective on some fabrics. Relatively inexpensive.
Generic 'Loop turner' which can turn small loops and tubes. I call it generic because there are a couple companies that make this. All it is a 12" long slim metal rod with a latch hook at the end. I have one of these too. Works just fine, but the latch has a tendancy to break off.....which is a good thing it is the least expensive! I can buy another one!
'Turn-a-Bout' works similarly to the 'Turn It All'. A bit more expensive. I have not tried this one.
'Fasturn' I call this the Mercedez Benz of turning tools. It can turn many sizes and quite easily, too. It is expensive. One day I will have them! LOL!!!
There are two that I am aware of and have had experience using. They are Fray Check and Fray Block. After having used Fray check exclusively for many years, I know some of the difficulties that go along with it. It tends to glob, the viscosity changes with temperature (gets too thick), dries too stiff for doll clothes (my opinion), and can yellow over time. Another doll clothes seamstress introduced me to June Tailor's Fray Block and I have been ecstatic about it ever since. It dries softer (less stiff than Fray Check), NEVER globs, and a tube of this will last longer than a bottle of Fray Check. Depending on where you buy it, Fray Block may cost upwards of a dollar more than Fray Check, but the benefits are worth it! (Please note that there are preparation instructions on the Fray Block tube that you must follow before you use it the first time). Fray Check is great for big people clothing, but Fray Block works best on doll clothes sewing because it does not harden or stiffen the fabric as much as Fray Check does.
**Please Note** This pattern is for your personal use. You may use any of my patterns to make things to sell, but you may NOT sell this pattern. These patterns are copyrighted. If you use any of my patterns to make things to sell, I would ask if you would please give credit to American Doll Outfitters.
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